The Sadie Family Wines Kokerboom 2022

Semillon Blanc and Gris, whole bunch pressed and aged in old foudres — and notably the first vintage to come in under 14% alcohol, at 13.2%. The nose is guarded at first, slowly giving up yellow stone fruit, jasmine and something green and fern-like. On the mouth, freshness and texture do the heavy lifting: acidity is finely calibrated, and a touch of glycerin and lanolin softens the midpalate before tangy orange rind and stem ginger take over on the finish. Honest, composed wine — though it stops just short of the depth and tension that distinguish Sadie's strongest cuvées this vintage.