Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Schütt Smaragd 2022

Knoll's Schütt vineyard sits on deep weathered gneiss deposited through the Mental graben, a gully that also channels cold air down the south-facing slope each night, producing the wide diurnal swings this site is known for. A brief, fleeting suggestion of yeast on the nose gives way to something altogether more austere, stone, salt, and white pepper. Bone-dry and almost skeletal in build, this is Grüner at its leanest and most mineral, with a savory white miso quality running through the finish alongside a crunchy, almost briny tension. There's real depth here beneath the lean frame. Serious stuff.