Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg Smaragd 2022

Fruit from both loess and gneiss parcels gives the 2022 Loibenberg Smaragd an unusually generous character for Knoll, ripe pear and a yeasty, savory depth on the nose that feels almost miso-like in its umami register. On the palate, white pepper crackles through a broader, juicier frame than you might expect from this address, with saline grip and bread-dough richness meeting in the mid-palate. Bone-dry, yet the fruit weight keeps it from feeling austere. Appealing now, but the gneiss-driven mineral core suggests it has room to develop.