Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru 2021

Reduction still cloaks the nose, but there's real depth lurking underneath. On the palate, juicy pear and lemon give way to a recurring dark licorice streak, volcanic, brooding, unmistakably Rangen. The acidity is polished rather than cutting, yet the overall impression is taut and almost severe, more austere than generous. That long, shadowy finish is the point: this wine has places to go. Give it time.