The Sadie Family Wines Treinspoor 2021

Sadie's Tinta Barocca from 1974 vines, vinified with 40% whole clusters, a grape he compares to Nebbiolo, and the analogy earns its keep. Dark berry fruit threaded with tar, graphite and a faint curl of Lapsang Souchong smoke. On the palate it's medium-bodied and composed, with pliant tannins and acidity tuned to a fine pitch, the texture almost Burgundian, though a peppery pulse through the finish grounds it firmly in Swartland. Graceful and deeply harmonious. Give it time. Drink 2027–2042.