Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 2021

From 1956-planted vines in deep loess, with two winters on gross lees — the second, Ott explains, allowing the yeast to quietly reclaim some of the richness it initially gave. The nose opens with an unexpected creaminess, almost buttery in its softness, before the wine pivots sharply on the palate into something tightly-knit and concentrated. Zesty citrus and chalky stoniness run along a lean, precise spine, with lemon pressing through with real insistence. Loess typically telegraphs plushness and weight; this wine refuses that reading entirely. The finish is long and carries a fine, nuanced astringency that adds both grip and a quietly compelling elegance. Bone-dry.