Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2020

Vines from 1919 and it shows — there's a depth and composure here that younger fruit simply can't manufacture. Dried apple, lemon oil, crushed flint and white blossom on the nose, then a palate that's concentrated without heaviness, the acidity perfectly threaded through rather than jutting out. Everything is in its place. Long, complex finish.