Hugel Crémant Le Champ Libre 2020

Four-plus years on lees shows in the texture — there's a creamy, bread-dough depth beneath the bright lemon curd and baked apple on the nose. The palate is juicy and rounded, the 46% Pinot Noir lending body and fruit while the Riesling keeps things taut and mineral. Bubbles are lively, dosage barely perceptible at under 3g/L. Drink well now, but the structure and salty, vinous finish suggest this will reward three to five more years in bottle.