Dirler-Cadé Riesling Spiegel Grand Cru 2020

Smoke and earth on the nose, with lemon peel cut through by something almost flinty. The palate is coiled tight, concentrated citrus, restless energy, a wine that clearly wants more time to find itself. From 45-year-old Spiegel vines, it has the raw material to reward patience. Give it five or more years.