Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru 2020

Drawn from four parcels ranging from 10-year-old massal selections to 60-year-old vines, this is Gewurztraminer of real composure. Dried rose petal and candied citrus rind on the nose, restrained rather than showy. The palate is where it opens up, broad and textured, with ripe apricot and a bitter pip edge that keeps the richness honest. At 23g/L residual sugar it should feel sweet, yet the finish lands just barely off-dry. That sleight of hand is the whole point.