The Sadie Family Wines Palladius 2018

Twelve grape varieties, whole-cluster-pressed and aged in clay and concrete amphorae, only Eben Sadie pulls off something this audacious with such composure. The nose is clean and focused: wax, pine resin, greengage, and a drift of chamomile that opens up steadily in the glass. On the palate, entry is bright and vivacious, with a beautiful waxy weight that carries through to peach skin, hazelnut, and a saline, umami-driven finish. Deeply satisfying Swartland white.