Roagna Barbaresco Albesani 2018

Crushed red berry, wild mint, tobacco leaf, orange zest and wet stone, the Albesani opens slowly, requiring patience before it gives anything away. Roagna has produced something here that is both deep and quietly powerful, with none of the showy opulence that 2018 can tempt winemakers toward. The tannins are present and serious, the structure tightly-knit, and the finish lingers with a stony mineral grip. Among Roagna's 2018s, this is the one that most demands the cellar, and most rewards it. Drink 2030–2045.