Radikon Sivi 2018

Don't let the name fool you — Sivi means grey in Slovenian, but this skin-contact 2018 Pinot Grigio pours a vivid salmon-pink with not a hint of grey in sight. Eight to ten days of skin contact followed by eighteen months in large Slavonian oak on the lees produces a wine that's as singular as Radikon gets. Blood orange, candied lemon peel, dried roses and ginger build a heady, dramatic nose. In the mouth it's plush and juicy yet alive with unruly acidity — tart grapefruit cutting through notes of strawberry, cherry pit, kiwi and sour melon in a sweet-and-sour interplay that just keeps going. Genuinely compelling stuff.