Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes 2018

Four years on lees leave a clear mark — smoke, preserved lemon, dried wildflowers, and a note of sun-dried hay. Rich in texture but never ponderous, with clean, decisive acidity running through the core that keeps the whole thing lifted and focused. Utterly compelling now, though there's enough structural backbone here to reward several more years of patience.