Domaine Vincey Chemin de Châlons Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature 2018

Coiled and austere, leading with lemon rind, raw chalk, and a flinty iodine edge that are unmistakably Le Mesnil. The oak makes itself known — this isn't a shy, neutral élevage — and a hint of volatile acidity roughens the texture alongside the wine's considerable vinous weight. There are sharp corners here, but beneath them lies the piercing tension and oyster-shell depth this lieu-dit delivers when it means business.