Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims Extra Brut 2018

Spiced and stony from the first pour, white pepper, lemon rind, and dried chamomile with an earthy, almost herbal undercurrent that speaks directly to Montagne de Reims Chardonnay. The bead is fine and persistent, threading a chalky, taut tension through the mid-palate. At 4 grams dosage, there's nothing to hide behind, and the wine doesn't need it: the structure is clean, the finish long, with a briny, oyster-shell pull that lingers.