Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune En Spois 2018

At 17.5% alcohol, this is a big wine, but not a clumsy one. Oxidative and deeply concentrated, with candied quince, toasted hazelnuts and a savoury curl of curry spice. What keeps it honest is the acidity, cutting through the richness with enough tension to hold everything in place. The finish lingers with real authority.