Ceritas Pinot Noir Costalina 2017

Taut and nervy for a wine at this level in the Ceritas lineup, the 2017 Costalina skips the easy, fruit-forward mode it can fall into and instead offers something more angular and interesting. Chalk dust, white flowers, mint and sweet red berry are laced with a savory whole-cluster undercurrent that adds real complexity. Fine-boned and focused, with an expressive character that outpaces its position in the range. Give it two to four years to fully open.