Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kreutles 2016

Green bean, rhubarb and a crack of Szechuan pepper on the nose — distinctly Grüner, distinctly Wachau. On the palate, crunchy and tart, with a savory, smoke-edged finish that lands with an almost peppery bite of cress. For a Smaragd, the concentration is there — sappy and substantive — yet the wine carries an unexpected lightness that keeps it from feeling heavy. What's most striking is the finish: a lucid, mineral precision that feels out of character for Kreutles, a site better known for its gentle gradients and deep soils. This is Knoll coaxing more from the vineyard than the vineyard typically offers.