Egon Müller Riesling Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spätlese Le Gallais 2016

Lemon zest, cinnamon-dusted plum, and singed pastry crust on the nose, with that characteristic high-toned lift of plum and pear eau-de-vie that marks this site. On the palate, the combination of unctuous fruit and glossy texture is immediately striking, succulence and grip working in tandem rather than at odds. Then the acidity takes over, cheek-pulling and relentless, driving through to a finish that turns unexpectedly cool and mineral, with wintergreen, crushed stone, and a surge of saline intensity. It's at once energizing and a little overwhelming, the kind of wine that leaves you recalibrated.