Philipponnat Cuvée 1522 2015

Coarse-textured and rustic, with dried herbs, citrus peel and a mineral backbone. The 58% oak fermentation adds grip and structure, though at the expense of elegance. Estate fruit from Aÿ anchors the blend, with Mailly Pinot Noir and Verzy Chardonnay rounding it out. Better with food than as an aperitif—the textural intensity needs something to work against.