Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2015

Spiegel sits atop the Hengstberg where loess and gravel share the plot roughly 60-40, and cool air off the wooded ridge keeps things fresh even at this level of richness. Honeydew melon and rhubarb lead, scented with cinnamon basil — an aromatic combination that's distinctly Ott. Full and glycerol-inflected on entry, but there's a stony undercurrent that keeps the weight honest. The finish is long and mouthwatering, closing on a fascinating shellfish-like convergence of nuttiness, salinity and deep sweetness.