Hugel Riesling Schoelhammer 2014

From a clay-rich parcel at the heart of Schoenenbourg Grand Cru, this is almost willfully closed, wax and wet earth the only hints the nose will offer. The palate tells a different story: dried lemon peel, a deep soothing density, and that signature Schoenenbourg emollient quality, but with an inner concentration that makes the Grossi Laüe from the same site feel positively forthcoming by comparison. Immense but utterly composed, channeling its weight into something smooth and almost meditative. The finish is chalky, creamy, long, citrus-driven and seemingly endless. Bone-dry. Nowhere near ready.