Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott 2014

Sage, anise and juniper lead the nose with a Muskateller-like intensity — aromatic and a little wild. Beneath that herbal charge, juicy melon and apple take hold on a firm, faintly oily palate, with mango-like tropical notes drifting in at the edges. A touch of bitter melon rind anchors the finish, which closes with a gripping concentration of herbal extract that borders on mouth-shaking. At just 12.7% alcohol, this is a wine that needs air — ideally a good decant now, and two to three years in bottle to fully settle. The 2013 and 2012 are showing beautifully in the meantime.