Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg 2014

Gooseberry, lime and green apple lead the charge, with the wine leaning noticeably toward Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc territory rather than the broader Wagram Grüner profile. Sweet pea, lentil and fresh spinach flesh out the mid-palate in classically varietal fashion — sleek and buoyant, with a tart, piquant finish that has some pleasing chew to it. Worth noting: the fruit sources here, including some non-estate vineyards, are being transitioned to biodynamic farming, with full certification still a year or two away for some parcels. Botrytis sorting wasn't quite as rigorous as in Ott's two other 2014 Grüner Veltliners, though it's a minor point against an otherwise honest, well-made entry-level bottling.