Vilmart Les Blanches Voies Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2013

Tightly wound and exacting, with white peach, crushed chalk, citrus oil, and a flinty edge that gives this real aromatic precision. Concentrated on the palate but buttoned-up, the fruit is there, the structure is formidable, yet everything is held in reserve. Fine persistent bead carries the tension beautifully through a long, austere finish. Patience is non-negotiable; hold until at least 2028.