Labet Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Les Champs Rouges 2013

Lightly oxidative on the nose — toasted nuts, dried apricot and ripe pear — yet the palate tells a different story: coiled, citrus-driven and precise, with white peach and lemon cutting through the broader texture. The 15% Melon à Queue Rouge and that red clay over chalk foundation give it an earthy grip that keeps things interesting. The finish is generous but slightly phenolic, a consequence of the minimal sulfur additions that will polarize drinkers. Catch it sooner rather than later.