Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2013

Spiegel in a rich, almost Chenin-like register. White peach, quince and honey lead, with truffle and a faint kelp-like savory note adding intrigue. At just over 13% alcohol the wine carries surprising weight, yet primary fruit juiciness keeps it from feeling heavy. Through the mid-palate, more distinctly Grüner character emerges, caramelized parsnip, snap pea, blond tobacco, before white pepper and ginger take hold on a long, mouthwatering finish. Ott noted the vines were particularly affected by millerandage, concentrating the fruit noticeably. A wine that earns its richness.