Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 2013

At just 12.2% alcohol, the lightest Fass 4 in recent memory, this 2013 has the kind of Riesling-sharp acidity you don't often find in Grüner Veltliner. White peach, fresh apple, lime, rhubarb and cucumber all come through with a juicy, thirst-provoking clarity, lifted by a delicate floral perfume running through the whole wine. The texture is satiny rather than broad, hinting at inner richness that hasn't fully unwound yet. The finish is long and distinctive, a vivid, seed-like bite and a faint thread of smoked meat that genuinely gets the mouth watering. Extended lees contact has clearly done its work here; Ott noted the wine was completely shut in early 2014 and needed time to open. At this price, in this vintage, it's hard to find fault.