Zidarich Malvasia 2012

Mineral-driven and deliberately unconventional, this Malvasia from Carso sets aside the variety's expected floral charm in favor of something stranger and more austere. Petrol, dried sage, rosemary, and pressed flowers emerge slowly, along with hints of dried fruit that surface with air. It doesn't read as textbook Malvasia, and that's clearly the point — approach it without preconceptions and there's real character here. Patience rewards.