Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2012

Clos des Goisses in a quieter register than usual, the frost-halved 2012 yields produced something more restrained than this steep, south-facing site typically delivers. Red cherry, dried herbs and white flowers thread through a mid-weight frame, with fine, silky bubbles carrying the wine's energy through a long, stony finish. There's an elegance here that feels almost at odds with the vineyard's reputation for power, and that tension is exactly what makes it worth cellaring. Drink from 2025 through 2045.