Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru Extra Brut 2012

Weighty and concentrated, with the density you'd expect from old vines in Vertus. Candied lemon rind, dried apricot and crushed herbs layer into something genuinely complex and unhurried. An oyster-shell backbone keeps the richness honest, while nine years on lees and time in neutral oak have built real textural depth without burying the terroir beneath it.