Travaglini Gattinara Tre Vigne 2011

Ripe and generous for Gattinara, the 2011 Tre Vigne leads with macerated cherry, leather, warm spice and a menthol-licorice lift that's more opulent than austere. Soft and creamy in texture, it lacks the nervy acidity that defines the appellation's finest expressions, but that's not the point here. This is an accessible, plush Nebbiolo that drinks well now and will continue to do so over the next few years.