Zidarich Malvasia 2010

Carso in a glass. Graphite, petrol, and damp earth dominate early, the mineral backbone of this Malvasia immediately announcing its origins. Fruit and varietal character, faint dried citrus, a trace of white blossom, surface gradually as the wine breathes, never competing with that stony core. There's a composed, unhurried quality here: nothing showy, just a deep, well-integrated white that holds its shape from first sniff to a long, earthy close.