Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010

Sweet red cherry, dried tobacco, plum, pressed flowers and a cool thread of mint, this is a deep, assertive Brunello that commands the glass from the first pour. Campalto's 2010 Riserva has always been one of the appellation's most compelling expressions, and the raw material here is undeniable. That said, it has closed down noticeably in recent months; even with extended air it gives up only glimpses of what lies beneath. The structure is immense, wound tight around a core of concentrated fruit that isn't ready to yield. Leave it alone for several more years at minimum, and revisit with patience.