Piero Busso Barbaresco Gallina 2010

Dried plum, worn leather, smoked herbs and a thread of menthol, the Gallina vineyard's character comes through clearly, even if the wine is showing its age. The tannins remain firm but haven't fully softened, and the fruit is beginning to thin at the edges, which puts the wine at a crossroads. Drink over the next two to three years while there's still enough flesh to keep things in balance.