Philipponnat Les Cintres Extra Brut 2010

Taut and bright, with lime zest, white pepper, and wet stone leading the charge on the nose. Fine bubbles carry the wine's energy well, threading chalk and a faint herbal lift through the mid-palate. Pure Pinot Noir from the warmest corners of Clos des Goisses, and it shows, there's a lively, almost electric quality here rather than the brooding density you'd find in a cooler year. The finish has a briny, oyster-shell snap that lingers cleanly. Drink now through 2028.