Muga Reserva Unfiltered 2010

Deep, near-opaque ruby. Ripe cherry, game, dried lavender and roasted coffee on the nose — brooding and a little wild. The mouth is dense and generously fruited, with dark cherry and sweet raspberry anchored by a thread of smoky minerals and a spicy, iron-edged undercurrent. Unfiltered weight is written all over the texture: plush, grippy tannins that build steadily and lock into the fruit without a seam. The finish is long and driven. Five-plus years will reward the patient; there's real structure here still working itself out.