Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père 2010

Fourteen-plus years in topped-up 600-liter demi-muids have done something remarkable here. Patience is required — give it two hours and the wine transforms, shedding its reserve to reveal dried lemon peel, flint, white almond, and saffron with striking clarity. Full-bodied and commanding, with a saline thread that runs through the finish and lingers. Outperforms the 2006 decisively. Hold two more years in a cool cellar before pulling the cork.