Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate 2010

Raspberry, smoke, licorice and a lifted note of peach — Ginestra Casa Mate at full stretch. Large-scaled yet weightless, the wine carries its concentration with an almost effortless aromatic lift through the mid-palate and into a finish of exceptional length. Tannins are noble and finely grained, the kind that reward patience rather than demand it. Grasso calls this a once-a-decade wine, and the 2010 makes the case plainly. Accessible now thanks to its richness and balance, but give it five to six years and it will be something else entirely. Drink 2020–2040.