Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 2009

Dark and generous from the first sip — black cherry, pine resin, menthol, wild herbs and cloves with a streak of new leather underneath. The tannins are firm but sit in harmony with the wine's considerable weight, giving it structure without austerity. Brunate has always been a site that rewards patience and attention; Voerzio and his son Davide have coaxed everything out of the 2009 vintage here. This is Barolo with presence and polish — the kind of wine that gets more interesting the longer you sit with it.