Quintarelli Amarone 2009

Darker and more opulent than neighboring vintages, the 2009 opens with chocolate-dipped black cherry, cinnamon, molasses and a grounding note of dried florals and undergrowth. Full-bodied and plush, yet it avoids heaviness — a streak of tart citrus-edged fruit and savory herb keeps things alive and in motion. The wine continues to evolve in the glass, drawing out pomegranate, blackberry and violet through a long, lightly structured finish. There's a touch of early accessibility here that makes it genuinely pleasurable now, though medium-term cellaring will serve it well.