Muga Rioja Blanco 2009

Greenish-gold, with the new French Allier oak front and center from the first pour — tangerine, candied lemon and ripe pear threaded through toasty wood and a smoky lees character that softens with air. Broad and fleshy through the mid-palate, the 90% viura, 10% malvasia blend carrying generous orchard fruit with a supple, near-creamy weight. Lemon rind and a bitter citrus edge pull it back from excess, and anise drifts through a long, mouth-coating finish. Impressive complexity for the price.