Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or Brut 2008

Toasted brioche and white peach open things up, with dried apricot and a faint waft of woodsmoke beneath. Air brings out honeyed citrus and acacia blossom, adding layers without losing the wine's underlying tension. Chalk runs through the finish like a spine, long and clean. Drinking beautifully now but has the structure to reward another five to eight years in the cellar.