Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2008

Pear, white melon and crushed chalk open with quiet authority, underscored by a flick of white pepper. Fine bubbles carry a taut, linear attack that gradually yields to something richer — honeysuckle, a hint of oyster-shell — before the stony, briny finish pulls it back into focus. Precise without being cold.