Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Brunate 2008

A wine of exceptional rarity — this pure Brunate Riserva was produced only for the Rinaldi family and a handful of intimates, the 'Le Coste' designation crossed out on the label the only clue to what's inside. Classic Nebbiolo aromatics rise from the glass with authority: dried rose, iron, tar and something almost haunting underneath. Translucent and finely drawn, the 2008 has an inner sweetness that never tips toward excess, held in place by taut acidity and silky, well-resolved tannins. It's one of the finest Rinaldi Barolos I've encountered — vivid and very much alive, with the structure and composure to drink beautifully for several decades yet.