Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto 2008

Tasted blind, but it scarcely matters — the wine announces its shortcomings within moments. Grainy, coarse tannins with no generosity of fruit, a mid-palate that trails off into nothing, and a finish so brief it barely registers. There is no arc here, no sense of anything held in reserve. Having followed this wine since November 2009, I can say with confidence it was troubled from the start and has not improved. Among all the wines Bruno Giacosa ever bottled under the Le Rocche del Falletto name, this is the most deflating — a Riserva in name only.