Aubry Aubry de Humbert Brut Nature 2008

Beeswax, warm apple pastry, and dried white flowers come out of the glass with conviction. The five-variety blend, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, Arbanne, and Petit Meslier, is a rarity in Champagne, and it earns its complexity: the two ancient varieties bring a resinous, almost herbal wildness that lifts the whole thing into unexpected territory. Zero dosage strips away any cushion, leaving stony, flinty depth exposed from first sip through a long, clean finish. Uncompromising and serious.