Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 2007

Understated on the nose — vineyard peach, wood smoke, and a drift of rose hip with a touch of maple. Rich and layered on the palate, ripe nectarine at the core with tobacco and white pepper adding depth. Chalky acidity and a thread of honey pull in opposite directions on the finish, giving it an interesting tension. Accomplished Grüner from the Rosenberg, though it loses ground slightly when set beside Ott's stronger vintages.