Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or Brut 2006

Deep gold, glowing with age. Poached pear, toasted brioche and dried chamomile lead, undercut by a thread of fresh ginger and warm pastry dough — 53 months on lees have left their mark in the best possible way. Fine, persistent bubbles carry a rich, creamy texture without ever feeling heavy, and the finish stretches long with a clean, saline snap. Serious Champagne with plenty of road ahead.